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Laminate Floor Assessment |
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Transition molding to the carpet at the entry door was hot glued to the laminate and not attached to the sub-floor. Due to the non-permanent nature of the hot glue and laminate combination, hot thermoplastic adhesive should only be used for temporary fastening to plastic laminate. And usually that is for the application of levelers for plank replacements. Also, note in the picture just right of center where some carpet was under the molding preventing it from sitting flush on the sub-floor. |
| The same transition molding as above was forced under the door jamb on one side compressing the laminate floor and causing the opposite side of the molding to break loose from it's tenuous bond to the floor. Note the chipped and splintered door jamb (someone needs to invest in a new saw blade) and the dislodged door casing. Sometimes installers in an attempt to avoid scribing a molding around a door jamb and casing combination will slide the end of the molding under the jamb to hide the cut end. It will occasionally work if the jamb has enough clearance. In this case there wasn't enough room and this Mickey-mouse installation of the molding essentially locked the floor in place and caused the molding to break loose on the opposite side where it wasn't under the casing. |
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The client claims the installer filled gaps between the molding and wall with painter's putty. I'm not sure of the type of filler product but it feels like it has a putty like consistency. The problem is the not putty, as it is intended to fill gaps. The problem lies in it's application. Excessive amount of product is in places an inch or more above the top of the baseboard molding. At the time of installation this probably could have been cleaned off without much effort. I tried cleaning a spot with water and a rag and was able to get some putty residue off of the new wall paint but had to rub pretty hard. I believe to get it to look like it should some aggressive scrubbing is going to have to take place. I'm afraid that this is going to compromise at least the paint and maybe even the wall texture. I'm recommending less aggressive scrubbing, touch up paint the wall and replacing the base molding with a similar style base that is 1/2" to an inch taller. The customer has no objection to this correction method. |
| Another putty look. |
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An unfilled area of the base in the water closet where the base was cut short. |
| Opposite side of the same area as above. |
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Base cut short where it meets the shower surround. |
| Base not set to the floor. |
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Old caulking not removed from base of toilet before resetting. |
| Side view of the toilet. |
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Low spot in the sub floor along an interior wall making for a 3/8" gap where the silver foil of the underlayment can be seen. I do not believe approved Wilsonart underlayments have a silver foil. |
| Customer claims installer installed new kickplate on the vanity cabinet and kickplate is not straight. It looks like it may be bowed out in the middle and floor was cut to it and molding applied. If installer agrees to install a kickplate he should make sure he installs it properly- meaning straight, plumb and level prior to cutting the floor and applying the finish molding. |
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Corner of the same cabinet pictured above. Customer claims she wanted solid wood molding stained as close as possible to match the cabinet. She believes the paper covered wood composite molding will not hold up in this heavily maintained area. I have to agree, It won't be long before that corner resembles dog dirt. If it doesn't already. |
| Some funky door jamb and casing cutting in the vanity area and closet. |
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Someone needs some training on the finer points of making finish cuts in wood. |
| While this white melamine quarter round application doesn't look horrible, the customer claims she purchased end cap to match the floor for the tub and shower. |
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Continuation of above. |
| Looks like debris is caught in the end joint between two planks in the vanity area. The floor was supposed to be glued together and a plank replacement rarely looks as good as a new factory edge installation. |
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Improper stagger in the bedroom, Wilsonart specs call for a minimum of 10". |
| Another row with inadequate stagger. |
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Another |
| Chipped corner in the bedroom. |
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Another chipped corner. |
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Recommend complete replacement with WilsonArt approved underlayment. New higher baseboard molding, touch up painting, door jamb repair, sub floor leveling and new trim installation. Click here for installation proposal. |
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